Saturday, March 9, 2013

Friday, June 15th – Day 5 – Iquitos


Woke up really early, considering we went to bed around 1:30ish. Woke up about 5 am because we were freezing. (I know, in the Amazon, right?) The room had an A/C unit way up on the wall, and it was fine when we went to bed, but didn't shut off, and we didn't notice it had a remote on the bedside table. But it ran all night and all we had were sheets. I woke up freezing and walked out and down the hallway to see Iquitos just after daybreak for the first time in the light. It is lovely and poor and sad and glorious all at once. Beautiful people, very poor. The young hotel worker, Jared, said he would go with me to find a phone charger and we hailed a mototaxi and found one. On the ride there we talked about the differences between our countries including minimum wage, street maintenance, plumbing, trash collection, how much a job pays and how much things cost as well. He was a cool guy, probably about 22. We made it back to the hotel, packed up, got a breakfast of toast and jam with banana juice and our driver came and picked us up for our Amazon trip. We got dropped off down by the river after driving for about 15 minutes, passing a lot of construction. The project was for a city-wide sewage treatment system. Currently, all the sewage goes to the river, untreated. After the project, it will all be sanitized. We walked through a small market near the water with fresh fish and fruit. I think a lady didn't like us very much and said some things under her breath b/c we didn't buy her fish. We walked down a wooden plank dock to our boat, a 15 foot long wooden boat with benches along both sides and a wooden roof. There were 8 of us. Mark, myself, Ray from the Netherlands, Molly from North Carolina, Mike from Massachusetts, Ray from Wisconsin, and Benoit and Annabelle from France. We saw some amazing birds and were told what each of them were. I remember the turkey vulture. We then came to the point where 3 rivers merge into each other, 1 being the Amazon. You could clearly see 2 black colored rivers flowing into the “milky coffee” Amazon and here we saw some pink and grey bottlenose dolphins breaching all around us. Then we stopped at a small fishing village to see their caiman alligator farm with giant lily pads. I bought a beer from one of the locals and was amazed by the beauty of this place. Saw a macaw, chickens and roosters were running around. Very different here. For example, our camp down river, in the room we are sleeping, there is a goose in a box in the corner of the room incubating some eggs. We saw the alligators, giant lily pads, and huge fish before heading back to the boat and going down river to our camp. First thing we see when we get there is a man carving a boat and fresh fish being dried out on a rack made from sticks. The dock was just a couple of boards and mud steps and the walkway was boards for about a quarter mile so you wouldn't have to walk in mud. The house has a semi-large room with 3 hammocks and the whole thing is screened in for bug control. There is one solar powered light and 2 large picnic tables. There are a couple of lamp lights lit by kerosene and the outhouse bathroom that is lit by glowsticks. There are 3 main sleeping rooms, 2 have about 10 beds each and the third has 3 beds. All the beds have mosquito nets over them and if you were reading this on my notebook as I'm writing it, you'd see many mosquito smudges on my paper, because they're all over. We were served lunch which consisted of cucumbers, tomatoes, some amazon vegetable with chicken, rice, potatoes and lemonade. I took a nap in a hammock and when I woke up, we took a pretty long boat ride and fished for piranhas with rods made from branches and fishing line attached to them. The boat motor barely worked when starting and stopping. I caught 4 sabalus and Mark caught the only 2 piranhas of the group. All-in-all we caught about 25 fish. We tossed them in the bottom of the boat. We headed back as the sun set over the trees. It was amazing. We saw heron, bats, kingfishers and many other birds on the way back. Also, earlier I had gone to a tree down by the river at camp and saw leaf cutter ants all marching from the mud with fallen pieces of flower from the mud, up a small vine, straight vertical for about 4 feet, then across a huge branch, and up the tree trunk further than I could see, it looked like the Planet Earth documentary, very cool to see. Dinner was ready when we got back from fishing. Beef with gravy, rice and pasta. I think we are eating the fish we caught for lunch tomorrow.
After dinner we walked down to the beach to look at all the stars, which were amazing with no light pollution for miles and miles. We saw the Southern cross and the scorpion, constellations which are only visible in the southern hemisphere. Molly and Ray had some marijuana from Iquitos and we smoked it, then we were supposed to go look for the espinoza frog, a crazy cool bright green tree frog found only in the Amazon jungle and has DMT, a toxin it secretes from its skin, which can have a psychedelic effect on humans. Unbeknownst to a few of us, this required a boat ride. Buzzing from the weed, I was giggly and in absolute awe of the whole experience. This sounds like one of the best stories of my life, sounds like a movie. Taking a nighttime boat ride on the Amazon River, millions of stars, many shooting stars, trekking up a muddy hill in mud boots, nearly knee deep in mud at places, up into a clearing lit only by the moonlight, down to a swampy area to find these brilliant green frogs. Our guide caught 2 of them. He used his machete to clean off a branch and caught one with a stick off of a branch that was seemingly out of reach. It was awesome. We went back to camp with the frogs, and almost everyone went to bed except for me, Molly, Ray and Ashuku, our guide. We stayed up for about an hour asking him questions as I wrote this blog. Whew! I hope I didn't forget anything...what a great day!

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