Saturday, March 9, 2013

Monday, June 25th – Day 15 – M.P. 2/3 to M.P. 7/8


Our group: Kelly and Lindsay, Courtney and Mary, Nick and Tanya, Robert and Valerie, Solenn, Alex and Branwen, Mark, myself, Miriam and Camilla.

Woke up to the most beautiful sunrise. The sun was hitting just the snowcapped peaks in the distsance to the west. We ate breakfast of toast, jam, omelet, fried plantains,and sausage (hot dog pieces). I quickly put in my contacts and we had our porter ceremony. We all stood out in a circle, freezing by the way, could barely feel my hands and dipping them in the hot water in the morning felt super weird. Anyway, we all stood in a circle, 3 guides:Marco, Eber and Ronnie, and 20 porters and 1 cook, and the 15 of us. We all said our name, age, and where we were from. A lot of the porters were from the same village and evidently walk 10 miles to a bus and then take a train to come to work and then carry 50 lbs on their backs up a mountain at least 4 days days a week, if not more. It was one of their birthdays, Juan, and we all said happy birthday to him. The llamas looked on as we all got acquainted and took a group photo.
We headed out after that and had a little bit of uphill climbing today. My muscles in my butt, thighs, knees and calves were very sore today and I got that good combination of pleasure and pain from working them and stretching them again. We had a snack after about 2 hours of hiking with an apple and a pack of strawberry frosted cookies that reminded me of iced animals. There are too many scenic views and vistas that are absolutely indescribable, so I won't even try, but just know that I've been immersed in beauty for three days straight now. Some of the 360 degree views are enough to make everyone in the group stop talking and just look around and breathe for several minutes at a time. The weather was clear and warm all morning and then we began our 2.5 hour descent to camp.
I talked to Mary, Courtney's mother, a woman of about 55 and in great shape for any age really. We talked about her son in the military, benefits, the Hurt Locker (movie), movies and life in general. I have had some really good one on onetime with a few of my fellow hikers. Alex and Branwen both go to Manchester U, and Alex studies zoology/conservation, Branwen studies biology and both are in Peru early before they meet up with a school trip on the Amazon. Solenn, a lovely 30 year old accountant from London, Lindsay and Kelly, both very nice upper twenty-something accountants from San Fransisco, Mary and Courtney, mother/daughter from Arizona, and Nick and Tanya, both originally from Belarus, but living in New York.
We arrived at an amazing Inca site with a dozen or more giant terraces. Before that, Eber gave us a talk about Incan beliefs and the main focuses of their belief system. Condor, puma and snake, reciprocity, work, learning, potatoes, corn and coca. He drew all this out with a stick in the dirt into something called the chacana. After that, we made it to the terraces. Some of the group gets split up a bit because we all walk at different speeds, so sometimes I'm near the back because I'm stopping to take take pictures a lot. I, by far, am taking the most of anyone, but I'm also fairly fast, so I catch back up to the front or, at least the middle usually. This allows me to get to know everyone a little bit as well. The group I'm usually with is me, Mark, Courtney, Mary, Kelly, Lindsay, Solenn, Nick, Tanya, Alex and Branwen. We arrived at the terraces and just marveled at the immensity and beauty. They are about 7 foot high and close to that wide, carved into a steep mountain, where if you look down, you get a little frightened at the steepness. There are probably 20-30 of them here and a building at the bottom. After a rest, I showed Branwen, Kelly and Lindsay some yoga postures and I sort of taught my first yoga class on the terraces near Macchu Picchu. We can actually see the back of the mountain where it is, but it's on the other side. The stretching of the yoga was exhilarating, especially my favorite position, pigeon, which stretches the hips.
Another 10 minutes down from where we are and we were at camp for the day. It was a short day, as it is only lunchtime, around 1pm. We had “mushroom ceviche” to start, toasted corn, quinoa soup, lomo saltado, rice, fried cauliflower, tuna stuffed yucca, an amazing chicken salad with pulled chicken, slightly toasted potatoes, a refreshing cucumber and tomato salad and Andean corn pizza. After mint tea, some of us had a nap. I took about an 1.5 hour nap and it began to rain, the sound of rain on a tent is very soothing white noise to me and it lulled me back to sleep. I woke up, it was dark, almost completely, and we all went on a short hike. The others started off as I was waking up and getting ready. Nick and Tanya were slightly behind as well, we were escorted by Juan, one of the porters, to join the rest of the group. The headlights were a necessity at this point. I couldn't see much, but it was another beautifully terraced site, and we had another Inca history lesson and headed back for happy hour and dinner.
We ate cake with a strawberry frosting and icing that read, “Welcome to Macchu Picchu”. The astounding thing to me is not so much the amazing food, which I would gladly eat anywhere, let alone on a 4 day hike, but that all this great stuff is made on camping equipment that is moved 2-3x a day! Ha made a cake! Evidently, they create a makeshift oven by using a large soup pot, putting a rack in it and covering it. It was a little bit dry, but I'm not trying to be a dick...it was a cake, it was good. I had my usual hot cocoa with coca leaves and milo, then we had dinner. Chicken kebobs stuck into a cabbage carved to look like a turtle, pasta, yucca, veggies, beef and an amazing apple pie with caramel frosting for dessert. A bit more mint tea, then we figured out the tipping as a group. We ended up giving each porter about s/70 and the chef about s/120, and we will tip the guides later. Each of us put in about s/100 for the tips.
We had another little circle outside and gave the tips to them. After that, a few of us talked to Marco and Eber for awhile and I handed out my business cards to everyone for contact info. Bedtime. Gotta get up at 330am tomorrow to see Macchu Picchu! What a great day! Less hiking, more relax, reflection and getting to know my new friends. And I got to walk around barefoot most of the day. I want a hot shower and a beer, but I wouldn't trade where I'm at right now for probably anything else in the world. Goodnight.

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